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Cinque Terre:  A Pause From The Chaos

Rainy Days and Sun Days

After a whirlwind of cities, Cinque Terre was the break we all needed.  Life slowed down in this jewel of Italy, and we were able to relax and regenerate.  The sea, the sand, the colors - everything was perfect.  What better way to spend a day than ambling between the five villages, shopping a little, sipping a bit of limoncello, and listening to the waves crash against the shore.  Life here is fresh and invigorating.  The people are warm and welcoming, and you sense a genuine contentment in them.  In the evening,  it's magical to watch the moon slide slowly over the bay and bathe the town in a warm, golden glow.  That's when everyone comes out and gathers at the tiny, open-air restaurants.  Nabil and I couldn't get enough fresh gnocchi with locally made pesto sauce.  There's something here that makes everyone feel a part of one big family.   

They warned us rain was coming, but we didn't imagine quite this much.  The skies split open with lighting, the thunder crashed, and torrents of rain poured down.  We crowded into the nearest coffee shop with a half dozen other travellers and waited for it to pass, but it took its own sweet time.  Sadly, we were told the walking trail we had been anticipating since leaving Nashville was closed for the day.  Not to be deterred, we waited for the rain to stop and went out exploring on or own.  We found a smaller, unmarked trail that wound up into the countryside above Monterosso and set out to find out where it led.  What a delightful hike!  The rain had intensified all the colors, and a myriad of greens engulfed us.  As we travelled upward, we saw fresh oranges, olives, and lemons.   Around one curve, we found a tiny garden with a group of white ducks nibbling at its edges,  and around another was a bright, red fishing boat lying abandoned in an orange grove.  As  the clouds floated off the hilltops, and the sun came out, we reached the top of our climb and a breathtaking view of colorful Monterosso  nestled against the deep blue and green sea.    

San Giovanni Batista Church

A Fascinating Monterosso Surprise

Snuggled in the center of Monterosso is, from the outside, an unassuming little black and white church.  Once you step inside, you will be charmed with its beautiful simplicity.  It doesn't have the breathtaking  dome of the churches of Paris or Rome, and its aging chandeliers are dusty and showing signs of wear.  The stained glass doesn't reflect the beautiful hues of red and blue seen in Sainte Chappelle, and its altar is small.  What it does have is a wonderful warm ambiance and a hint about the character of the people who worship there.  I was fascinated with the scepter-bearing skeleton lolling near the ceiling.  I'm still trying to find out what he symbolizes.

Two Things I Learned While Travelling in the Cinque Terre

1.  Throw things away as you go.  Before we left on our trip, I read everything I could find, but it was too much to take with me.  I condensed everything I needed, if I couldn't download it on my phone, into one small notebook with such things as sights we could not miss, bits of language, customs specific to the culture, etc.  Once we left the area, I tore the pages out of my notebook and deleted the downloads, saving room for other things.  The travel guides are still at home, and I can go back to them any time I want.

2.  Take advantage of planned tour gatherings.  Some of the best times we had were sitting on the hotel's patio, sipping Limoncello and visiting with our tour partners.  We exchanged contact information and still visit on line with many of them.

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